Most of the time in conservation, our goal is to retard the aging process and protect objects so that the knowledge of our cultural heritage can be passed down for many generations. Today was a bit different, because our goal was not just to stop the spread of corrosion, but we got to make a dull and dirty metal object all shiny again. I realized that sometimes it just feels good to make something sparkle again. So today for those objects that its okay to make shiny, I got to learn how to conserve metal objects using the hot waxing technique. Normally, conservators would use either oil or cold wax, or an acrylic coating/lacquer like Paraloid or Incralac. However, it seems that hot waxing is also another technique to use to coat metal. Not only does it give a good protective surface, but it also doesn’t leave behind brush marks, like lacquer can.
The objects that we tested this new technique on were two swords that can be found in the Stafford-shire Hoard Gallery at the museum. These two replicas Saxon swords are on display so that you can lift and feel how heavy they actually were. Because they can be handled, you might gather that they can get pretty grimy and corroded, and you would be correct. As a result of this handling, they periodically come of display for a few hours so that they can be polished and re-coated. One reason we were the ones in charge of doing this today was so that we could get instruction from Pieta in the hot waxing technique and practice for use on future objects. As these are replicas and not authentic Saxon swords, they made great practice material.
The first step to hot waxing is cleaning the surface of corrosion and oil products. This was done using fine steel wool and a polishing compound known as Autosol, a polish that is made to remove corrosion, stains, etc, from metal surfaces.
These products, and a lot of elbow grease were enough to give the swords a nice shine.
Next, the swords and the wax used (micro-crystalline wax) were heated with a hairdryer (or heat gun, depending on what is handy) until the metal surface was hot to the touch and the wax was beginning to get very soft.
Using a brush, the wax was then brushed in a thin smooth layer over the hot surface, ensuring that you keep the surface hot till after that wax is on. Both sides were completed, the back done carefully to ensure that the front wax wasn’t rubbed off, then left to cool for a few minutes until the wax began to turn white.
After the wax is harder, but not too hard (when the metal surface is warm to the touch, but not hot), it was time to buff off the wax with yet more arm strength and a cotton cloth. And if you thought polishing was hard, getting the surface layer of wax off was even more difficult. But after we finished, the metal surface was again nice and shiny and well protected.
Hot waxing protects objects so well in fact, that when three gun locks were found and compared after exposed to salt water from the flooding that happened in Louisiana from Hurricane Katrina, the lock that was hot waxed had almost no visible corrosion. In comparison, the oiled and cold waxed objects had quite a bit of corrosion to the surface. If you would like to read about this and see the vast difference in protection from the three different techniques, you can find the article, entitled Preserving Your Antique
Arms Collection by David Arnold, at this website: https://www.thegca.org/pdfs/Preserving.pdf .